4 August 2013
Caught the 6.50am ferry to Rebun island this morning. It didn’t feel too early since the sun was already up and shining at around 4. The streets of Wakkanai were quiet and still. Crossed the railway tracks to reach the ferry terminal.
In the distance is the unmistakable cinder cone of Mount Rishiri, rising above the sea, laced with shreds of white clouds. Rishiri island is my destination tomorrow.
Landed in Rebun and hopped on the bus to the northern cape of Sukoton. The bus winds along the eastern coast of the island, passing by fishermen’s homes sunning sheets of kelp. Sukoton cape looks out to the uninhabited Todo island, as squawking gulls perched on the nearby cliffs.
A few bus loads of Japanese tourists came and went from the lookout point. There were a handful of other Japanese visitors independently travelling, perhaps eye-ing those rolling hills like me. After a brunch of delicious grilled fish, I headed for the trail that starts from Sukoton-misaki, to Gorota-misaki and then Sukai-misaki. Cape to cape along the coast.
And what a fine walk it was!
As I wandered through rolling fields of flowers under a shower of sunshine, my heart soared in delight. I was simply drunk from sweeping views of dramatic cliffs, splendid coasts, sapphire blue sea and fishing villages tucked in coves. This is one of my favourite hikes! Even though the blooming season for a lot of the flowers is over, it is still an absolute joy to be on Rebun.
I was alone for most part of the trail, apart from a couple of announcements from the PA system which were audible even while I was in the middle of thistle bushes in the hills. Tsunami alerts are serious business here.
What a glorious day. I am so very happy.